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Mon
11
Jul '11

Lingyin Temple

Today we decided to tick a tourist spot off our list so set out for Lingyin Temple, a buddhist temple west of West Lake.

I have to say it wasn’t one of our most successful journeys… we misunderstood the bus route, missed our stop, then had to navigate our way with a map that proudly stated “not to scale.” So about 45 mins later we finally made it to the bus stop at the end of lingyin road, only to realise that we didn’t actually have any cash and we were heading to a temple in the middle of nowhere, with no food. Sheer stubbornness made us plough on – and we were not to be disappointed. We arrived at the outskirts of the temple parkland only to find that they’d been wiley enough to install an ATM by the souvenir stalls!

So lunch was some very spicy noodles from a food stall by the ticket office. When I say spicy, I mean blowing-the-roof-of-your-mouth-off-spicy, but strangely addictive! They were similar to the noodles at the night market; served cold with cucumber strips and chilli sauce. They were displayed slightly differently though – they were all packed up in readymade clear plastic tubs, which I thought were ready to eat. However, when I asked for one, the stall owner opened the tub, tossed the contents (noodles and cucumber) in chilli sauce and other spices, then re-packed it up. Delicious, but absolutely impossible to eat without dribbling noodles all over your chin, so not first date fodder. However, for 5rmb (50p) you can’t go wrong!

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Wed
6
Jul '11

Kashgar and the Legendary Sunday Market

We arrived in Kashgar late Saturday afternoon. We were dusty and simply focussed on getting clean again! The following day we went out to the Kashgar Sunday Markets. Kashgar has been a main trading city since the early days of the Silk Route. We are not far from the Pakistan and Kyrgyzstan boarders (Russia to the North) so it has always been a focus for trade. The Sunday Market has been operating since those days. Like any animal market – it is a real social event for the farmers that come into town. Donkey, Cows, Goats and Sheep (as well as Watermelons) were all being traded. We wandered around for a couple of hours, just fascinated by the people watching. Later a couple of decided to jump on to of the truck to get the overall perspective – it was teeming with people at this stage.

Later we were dropped at the other part of the market (they have moved the animal market further out of town). Once again it was buzzing with people. Trying to get through the fabric section was nuts! We were on the search for tennis balls – but couldn’t find any – so were just content to push our way through the crowds and buy pistachios. The day just seemed to go.

Yesterday we headed into the Old Town. Kashgar has the face of a modern Chinese city, so it was lovely to wander around the Old Town. It was all so relaxed – I really enjoyed it. We have another day here and then head for the Kyrgyrzstan Boarder tomorrow.

We had a very funny night last night. The word from the Chinese agent was that with the bombings in Xinxiang Province the border check points were very tight. They were allowing traffic to head towards the Pakistan border but not necessarily back. Claire, Dave and John (the Chinese guide) decided that seeing though they could not guarantee the groups return from (can’t remember which lake) the lake then they would not take the truck in and spend another day in Kashgar. Some members of the group somehow heard … ‘we are stiching you up and denying you something’ … so they organised private cars to the lake. That left only 6 of us with Claire, Dave and John back in Kashgar. We had a great day wandering around Kashgar. It was one of the guys birthday (Jakko) but he had gone to the lake with the others. We decided that we would have a party anyway …. we had cake, silly string, I heart China Headbands, beer, food @ John’s cafe and because we could … fireworks. Lucy and Anna had bought musical instruments and they played some tunes for us and then the night turned silly from there (a lot of laughs were had all round). I’m not sure how Jakko felt when he saw the photos when they returned (they had a great time … but Jakko had a very quiet birthday and some of the others could not understand ‘why we didn’t wait’)

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Wed
29
Jun '11

Gesar – A Tibetan Culture Hero

There has been a fair amount of rain in the last two days but today is sunny for now. There are only two meetings today. The first is a quiet lunch meeting with an old friend from Vancouver back in the early 1970s. The second as yet not confirmed is with a director from the Sichuan University.

Yesterday was spent inside writing the Gesar article which I have promised for a publication scheduled to be out by September. The essay is on the Tibetan culture hero Gesar. I will only speak from the side of the iconography and try to contextualize the art in the larger Gesar field of study. It is a big topic with few academic references and few knowledgeable scholars that specialize on Gesar. The more I look into the topic the bigger the subject gets. I believe that Gesar must be understood in two ways: as Epic Literature Gesar and Religious Gesar. The first deals with the vast amount of narrative literature on the life of Gesar and his heroic exploits. The second relates to Gesar as he is understood as a religious figure, an emanation of Padmasambhava, and the various ritual texts accompanied by unique iconographic forms.

This was not how I originally understood the subject and is really a new idea essentially generated from my time in Chengdu discussing the topic with a number of Tibetan and Chinese informants. My impression of previous Gesar scholarship, both in the East and the West, is comparable to a patchwork quilt. This is really quite understandable when the subject of Gesar is understood as a very large topic with extensive literature, poetry, song, live performance, dance, costume and references to endless Tibetan geographic locations. In the last two hundred years a strong religious component has been added to the already vast literature. Predominantly spearheaded by followers of the Nyingma Tradition of Tibetan Buddhism a cult of Gesar developed in the early to mid 19th century. Dzogchen Monastery can be named a s a strong center of Gesar activity primarily relying on the ‘Revelations’ and Dagnang (Pure Visions) of Do Khyentse Yeshe Dorje, 1800-1866

In the late 19th century the eclectic scholar Mipam Jamyang Namgyal Gyamtso (1846-1912), further popularized Gesar as a religious figure – a deity – creating rituals and meditations. A teacher of Mipam created a divination system with a one month required retreat. Most of the art objects that are currently known appear to be related or inspired by the writings of Mipam.

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Tue
21
Jun '11

The Temple of Heaven

Once again we left early and went to our one attraction of the day. We have a lot of extra days in Beijing so we can take our time. Which is nice since the traffic here is pretty bad, it lets us take things slow and relax. Today we saw the Temple of Heaven, where the emperors since the Ming dynasty have been worshipping Heaven, as early as the 1300′s. It was kind of overcast but still pretty cool and exciting. We walked around the whole park which had some awesome trails through rows of trees. When worshipping Heaven there were many different phases throughout the ritual with ceremonial sacrifices. There was also a phase of dancing and singing. Walking along the path you could see many people singing or dancing to music or doing Tai Chi on the paths. It was really relaxing.

You could see the altar they used for animal sacrifices and also the actual temple of worship. When we had seen everything we went to the hotel and had the buffet lunch, then I got Jie to go with me and workout. Now we’re back in the nice air conditioned hotel relaxing and we’re about to play Chinese monopoly! I’m hoping it’s like the American version in some way.

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Mon
13
Jun '11

Beijing For A Week

We arrived early on the 7th, after a loooooong trip, and spent the first day and a half wandering around the city, overcoming jet lag, working out the metro…all the boring stuff you do on the first day anywhere i guess. Then on the saturday, the 9th, we headed to The Summer Palace in the north west of Beijing. I’ll spare you the history lesson, but as far as huge, sprawling, former imperial summer residences go, it is an impressive sight! it is set in a huge park, overlooking a lake, and in total comprises around 100 different buildings; halls, bedrooms, courtyards, temples, galeries etc. it served as the summer home for a dozen emperors or so, or the Ming and Qing persuasion until we (the British) with the help of our then allies the French (incoyable, non?!) burnt it down in about 1860, as punishment for refusal to sign or adhere to a treaty, i forget the exact reason. Long story short, even in its now restored state, it is worthy of mention, we spent most of the day there before heading to the Olympic Stadium in the evening (see photos!).

On Sunday we had a lazy day and me thte rest of our group and went out for a meal, ready for the trip to begin for real on the 11th with a trip to the Great Wall, not a bad start. As you can see from the photos (hopefully, i am writing this before trying to upload any, so fingers crossed), the scenery is amazing, as is the wall itself. It is a baffling structure in many ways, its size, location, the reason for its construction….all suggest madness really. And in many ways it was a crazy idea, but one that was carried out nonetheless and has stood the test of time (not to mention invasions) and is still in remarkable condition. We wandered along it for about two hours or so, then somewhat unbelievably took the toboggan ride to the village at the bottom of the hill!

Tuesday was spent at Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City.
In the west Tianamen Sq is of course famous for the events in 1989, whereas to the Chinese it is the home of Mao’s Mausoleum (they queue from 6am for a three second view of his body apparently) and various other significant buildings.

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Tue
7
Jun '11

Li Na hailed as China’ s new idol

CHINA’ s Li Na is hailed nationwide as an idol on a par with NBA superstar Yao Ming, following her historic victory in Paris that made her the first Asian tennis player to lift a grand slam singles title.

People in her home country compare her with China’ s three best known international sportsmen, saying that the nation has Li’ s strength, along with Houston Rockets center Yao Ming’ s height, Olympic hurdle champion Liu Xiang’ s speed and snooker star Ding Junhui’ s accuracy.

Despite her loss to Kim Clijsters at the Australian Open final in January, Li’s popularity as the flag-bearer of Chinese tennis has soared and reached new peaks at the French Open.

Last week, the nation’s sporting pages were dominated by praise for the 29-year-old when she won the semifinal match against Maria Sharapova. The final against defending champion Francesca Schiavone, broadcast live on China’s state television, attracted a record of 95 million viewers.

On the Chinese Internet, home to more than 470 million users, followers of Li’s microblog rose roughly 200,000 overnight to 2.07 million. Major portals were flooded with messages of congratulations, with someone writing that “The victory belongs to Li Na as well as to the country” and a few saying that “I was excited and burst into tears.”

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Wed
1
Jun '11

A beefy option along the Bund

CHAR Restaurant and Bar opened last month and is the latest addition to the Bund’s eclectic dining scene.

It claims to be the only restaurant in Shanghai now serving the award-winning Blackmore Wagyu Beef from Australia. However, seafood lovers will not be disappointed and the imaginative side dishes are hearty enough to be a sumptuous meal on their own.

A contemporary grill and bar that delivers a fine but refreshingly informal dining experience, the focus is on quality products, simple, bold flavours and playful presentation.

The outdoor bar and terrace directly overlook the Huangpu River and feature 270-degree views over The Bund and Pudong skylines.

Char’s Indulgence (1,888 yuan/ US$291) is strongly recommended. The set includes 200 grams of Blackmore’s Wagyu Beef fillet with a marble score of 9+, seared foie gras, grilled lobster, sautéed fresh wild mushrooms and shaved truffles. The Char Banana Cheesecake with lime cream is a great choice for dessert.

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Thu
19
May '11

Easy Chinese Eggplant Recipe

This Chinese eggplant recipe belongs to both the best Chinese recipes and Chinese vegetarian recipes. When I have it on my table, it disappears fast.

Eggplant is good for folks who need foods rich in potassium. It is also a good source of Dietary Fiber, Thiamin, Vitamin K, Manganese, Vitamin B6, Folate while it is very low in Cholesterol, a good choice for hight blood pressure diet.

I’ve made it one of my family’s regular veggie recipes. It might even give you some quick dinner ideas today, or you can add it to your healthy Chinese food recipes to try later.

In this recipe, I use Chinese eggplants. I also tried other eggplants, it worked well too.

 

Ingredients:

1. Chinese eggplants

4, cut into long pieces like shown in the picture above. You can cube them if you like. (If you use regular eggplant, it’s fine.)

2. For the Sauce:

    Soy sauce — 3 tablespoons (try organic soy sauce if possible)
    Rice wine vinegar — 2 tablespoons
    Sugar — 2 tablespoons
    Green chili pepper — 2, chopped
    Cornstarch — 2 teaspoons
    Red pepper flakes — some, decide according to your taste or use 1 teaspoon chili oil
    Rice wine or dry sherry — 1 tablespoon

3. vegetable oil — 4 tablespoons

4. Optional: — One green onion, cut into small pieces. (Green veggies are full of megnesium which has many health benefit. Add green when possible. )
Instructions:

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Tue
3
May '11

Xi’an City Profile

Overview:

Xi’an, prounounced “she-ahn” is the capital of Shaanxi, “shahn-she”, province in central China and is steeped in history as it not only was the cultural and political capital of China for hundreds of years, but also the beginning point of the Silk Road leading west. The biggest tourist draw is, of course, the Army of the Terracotta Warriors, but the city itself is an interesting destination to visit Muslim markets and tour the mostly-intact city wall.


Location:

Xi’an is located in south-central Shaanxi Province which itself is bordered by Gansu, Ningxia, Inner Mongolia, Shanxi, Henan, Hubei, Chongqing and Sichuan provinces respectively.

History:

A crossroads for trade, Xi’an has seen dynasties come and go. -Read more about the History of Xi’an.

Features & Attractions:

The interesting part of Xi’an itself is the area inside the city wall. This is the old part of town and inside are the Bell and Drum Towers, huge Ming-era towers built to house the city’s bell and drum. The Muslim quarter is just west of the Bell Tower. You can easily spend a day inside this area: rent bikes and ride along the walls peering down onto daily Xi’an life, wander around the towers and then stroll into the Muslim quarter, snack on street food and find yourself a bargain in the markets. There’s lots to see in the surrounding area too, not to mention the Army of the Terracotta Warriors.

City Walls:

The walls were built on the foundation of the Tang Dynasty’s imperial residence in Chang’an (read more about Xi’an’s History). While most ancient Chinese cities had walls, most have been knocked down to make way for modern-day roads. Fortunately for you, the Ming-era walls are still mostly intact. Take a few hours to climb up and rent bikes at the top. It’s a great way to see Xi’an.

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Mon
24
Jan '11

Five places you must see in Hangzhou

Hangzhou is the capital of Zhejiang province and its political, economic and cultural center. With its famous natural natural beauty and cultural heritages, Hangzhou is surely one of China’s most imperative tourist venues.

The West Lake is undoubtedly the most renowned feature of Hangzhou, noted for the beautiful natural beauty that blends naturally with many famous historical and cultural sites. In this beautiful area, Solitary Hill, the Mausoleum of General Yue Fei, the 6 Harmonies Pagoda and also the Ling Yin Temple are probably the most frequently visited attractions. The “Ten West Lake Prospects” have been completely specifically selected to give the visitor outstanding views from the lake, mountains and monuments.

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